A Granada Tapas Tour You’ll Love to Experience

There is nowhere better to enjoy tapas culture than the home of the Alhambra. Writer and traveller Alex Brotherton takes us on a Granada tapas tour.

Contrary to popular tourist belief, tapas is not just a novelty way of eating. It’s about having a laugh with mates after work. Meeting family at the weekend before a big lunch. Or moving from one bar to the next, long into the night. Depending on the location, tapas dishes can vary from Michelin-starred works of art to simple plates of olives or crisps. But what’s certain is, tapas is a way of life throughout the Iberian Peninsula. Nowhere is this more evident than in Granada, the hypnotic Moorish city in Southern Spain.

Tapas name theories

The word tapa comes from the Spanish/Portuguese verb “tapar”, which means to cover. Several theories have attempted to explain the origins of the cuisine. Some believe tapas were thin slices of bread or meat used to cover drinks (often Andalucian sherry) to protect them from flies. Hence the derision of tapas from tapar. Another theory suggests tapas were strong cheeses served to cover up the taste and smell of bad wine. While some insist Felipe III enforced the practice of giving free tapas. In an attempt to prevent his soldiers and sailors from getting too drunk.

Tapas were once served free with drinks all over Spain, but this practice has waned over time. Granada is one of the few provinces that still operates the free tapa policy. This makes the Andalusian city a must visit for foodies and those who fancy a bar crawl. With the bonus of some decent free grub. On a recent trip, I visited the popular Calle Navas and surrounding backstreets. Sampling the delicacies and enjoying the ambience of the city’s traditional bodegas.

Granada tapas tour

High on my agenda was a visit to the famous Los Diamantes, to experience the chaotic lunchtime atmosphere of a popular locals’ haunt. It did not disappoint. Walking in off the laid-back Calle Navas, I entered to find a melee of customers jostling for position at the bar and shouting their orders at the two barmen. The staff worked at lightning speed, pulling cañas (small glasses of beer) while simultaneously taking orders, totting up bills and sharing the odd joke in-between. All the while, serving up delicious tapas dishes including paella, squid and meat balls. Initially hesitant to push my way to the bar (British politeness and all that), I soon opted for the typical Spanish free-for all approach and found myself stood at the bar enjoying a beer and a plate of prawn paella.

The bar was decorated in simple but traditional Spanish style, with tiled walls and blackboards detailing the day’s offerings. If you’re after a quintessential Spanish experience enjoying cheap drinks and good tapas as the locals do, then Los Diamantes is a must visit (there are two other Los Diamantes bars in the city but the one on Navas is the original). If a quiet, relaxing sit-down meal is more your thing, then one of the following places might be more up your street.

Back street delight

Next stop was Bar Provincias, located on a narrow side street of the same name. A stone’s throw from the imposing shadow of Granada Cathedral and the Bib Rambla plaza. The bar has the same authentic atmosphere as Los Diamantes. With locals chatting at the bar surrounded by discarded serviettes and various meat bones. It retains traditional elements such as tiled walls and various pieces of family memorabilia. But has a more modern and airy feel, with more seating options and an outdoor area. We ordered beers (no shoulder barging or shouting necessary this time) and received a tapas of albondigas (meat balls). This dish can often leave me disappointed. But these were delicious, the tender flavoursome meat pairing well with the tomato and mushroom sauce.

Using my patchwork Spanish, I did my best to read a copy of the local newspaper. While other tapas including Russian salad, house croquettes and anchovies arrived. There was also a raciónes board (raciónes are larger dishes for sharing). So, while Bar Provincias is a great spot for a drink and a tapa in the cathedral area. It’s also a viable option for lunch or an evening meal.

Seafood heaven

Later, we headed a few minutes south of Calle Navas to seafood specialists La Esquinta de Javi, a bustling bar on the Plaza de Mariana Pineda. Famed amongst locals for its fresh and tasty seafood, the bar avoids tourist saturation thanks to its location slightly off the beaten path. Meaning you can have a sit-down meal without losing out on Spanish authenticity. Although the bar has indoor seating, we chose to sit across the street in the tree-lined plaza. This provided a relaxing backdrop to the fishy delights that were to come.

After enjoying the fried cod tapa that accompanied our drinks, we ordered media raciónes (half a normal ración) of deep fried squid, padron peppers, langoustines in garlic and fried anchovies. They were all fantastic. Other dishes said to be good are the razor clams and testicles, although we didn’t get round to trying these. If you can’t get a seat, they have a new, slightly bigger bar just round the corner!

Mythical bar

No Granada tapas tour would be complete without a mention of Bodegas Castañeda. Slap bang in the middle of town, just off the popular Calle Elvira. It’s popular with locals and tourists alike. There are wine barrels stacked to the ceiling, jamon hanging from the walls, and a long wooden bar. Stepping in off the street really does feel like you’ve gone back in time. The Bar is famed for its jamon serrano, cheese, Manzanilla sherry and Vermouth. Stand at the bar and pair a Manzanilla with some local Manchego cheese and jamon. You won’t be disappointed.

These are just a few of the thousands of tapas bars in Granada, but there’s countless others waiting to be discovered. So next time you are in Southern Spain don’t go to Granada just for the Alhambra, stay for the tapas.